This is what I don't get about sugar cookies. They look spectacular -- colorful, vibrant, piled with icing -- and yet invariably taste awful. They're a culinary cock tease, great to look at, terrible to take home. Why nobody decorates the many delicious cookie variants out there is a true holiday mystery. Unless the answer, simply, is that chocolate chip cookies need no flashy costumes. Unlike their dolled-up, sugar cookie cousins, we like chocolate cookies for their personality.