I don't know what Mark Bittman is making here -- it may be delicious -- but it's not ma-po tofu. Which is a shame. Ma-po tofu is, probably, the most minimalist of all Sichuan dishes, and one of the easiest to make. 15 minutes from start to finish. It's also perfect winter food: Spicy and hot and comforting. And it's cheap. Good for a global deflationary spiral. You'll need: